Photos, Mornington Peninsula to Mallacoota

In The Maze, Mornington Peninsula

Squeaky Beach, Wilson's Promontory N.P.

A Wombat

A Kangaroo!

...more kangaroos!

View from our guest house tonight in Mallacoota

Melbourne to Mallacoota

  Yes, Virginia (and Cheri), there ARE kangaroos!  We finally saw then at Wilson's Promontory National Park (henceforth referred to as The Prom).
   But first, let's back up. We carefully planned our trip out of Melbourne for Cheri to avoid problems. We drove about 200 yards and encountered a DETOUR. We followed the detour, which led us into another detour. (Apparently they do their roadwork here on Saturday). So much for the plan. We left the central downtown and discovered that the quickest route from there was a very short toll road, for which we didn't have a pass - we'll be getting the bill from Hertz for that. Interestingly, you only encounter the toll road when you leave Melbourne, not when you enter it.
   Anyway, we finally got out and then toured the Mornington Peninsula, not too far south. We first visited a chocolate factory, then did a couple of mazes in a wonderful garden there, and finished with lunch on the seafront in Sorrento (no, not the Italian one). Then on to Phillip Island, where we quickly checked into our hotel and then rushed over to see the Penguin Parade. It was just like the photos. Although the penguins stay well clear of the crowd when they come ashore (in large and comical bunches), they proceeded to their burrows along the boardwalk, only a few feet away from us. At one point, the walk had to be cleared so they could cross in front of us. It was a rare opportunity (as it was for the other 800 people there).
   Yesterday we headed for The Prom, a pointed chunk of land sticking out into the ocean. We took several walks along the beaches, and then, determined to see animals, we stayed in the park until later. About 4:30 we saw our first kangaroo. We then moved to a wildlife walk area where we encountered our first (live) wombat - up close, as they don't appear to be concerned about people at all, and couldn't really get away if they wanted to - they're very fat and slow.
   We walked a few hundred yards into the bush. In the distance we saw what appeared to be a number of brown rocks, but, as a qualified geologist, I knew there were no brown rocks in the area. Shortly one of the 'rocks' raised its head - a kangaroo! Then another! There were probably about two dozen within a few hundred yards of us, along with 3 emus. At last, Cheri was satisfied! We had now seen the Australian collection: koalas, wallabies, wombats, kangaroos, and emus - and, oh yes, an echidna which we saw crossing the road that morning. We made it back to our hotel a few minutes after official sunset without hitting anything, so all was well.
   Today we had a long drive to Mallacoota on the southeastern corner of the continent, preparing for our dash to Sydney. We're staying at a lovely guest house overlooking the bay, with parrots and other colorful birds all around. There is the (unlikely) possibility that we might see a sea eagle here, or even the rare lyre  bird. If so, you'll soon know.
   Photos to follow when we have time!

More Melbourne

G'day again!!! They actually say that here. . . all the time! We're leaving Melbourne this morning so we've repacked but seem to be having a lazy start. My main fear is that I have to get out of this city -- driving. They have a really interesting way of making right turns here because there are tram cars in the middle of the road. The first time I noticed it, we were walking along the sidewalk and we had to stop so I could watch. There's a car-sized rectangle painted on the road on the left side within the intersection. If a car wants to make a right turn and the tram is around, it drives up to that rectangle and sits there with all the other cars going all over in the normal way. Then, the weird part is that the light goes red and the car makes its turn! I've watched this happen a couple of times but I'm still not totally clear how the driver knows what to do so I told Jay to try to route us out of the city without having to make any right turns. He worked on that last night while I wrote in my journal. He thinks he has that figured out, so we'll see. Keep all fingers and toes crossed so I don't hit anything!

We went to the Botanic Gardens yesterday and walked around for about an hour and a half. It is a huge "garden" and we wanted to see the names of all these amazing trees we've been seeing everywhere. They really do have the most interesting trees! My favorite is the wattle tree. . .  and since it's spring here, this tree is in bloom and it is incredible. The entire tree is covered with fist-sized puffy balls. The best picture we have is one with all yellow blooms so I don't know whether they are all yellow. I also bought some spices at a great spice shop buried down an alley here. It is called bush pepper and has wattleseeds as part of the mixture. It also has desert tomatoes ground up as well and I tried eating those too. . .  great flavors when all together. Very pungent. I bought several tablespoons in case anyone wants to try it.

Well, I better sign off. Good luck to the FSO tonight for its opening performance of the season!!!! I'll be thinking of everyone!!

Melbourne Photos

Strange & wonderful plants: Fitzroy & Melbourne Botanic Gardens

The tea room, The Windsor Hotel

Melbourne Day One

   We spent yesterday looking around Melbourne. Our colds seem to be improving - Cheri was not bad yesterday and I am one day behind her, so things should be OK in the next day or two.
   We started yesterday going to the National Art Museum of Victoria. Their special exhibit was "Paintings from the Hermitage Museum", but unfortunately the wait line to buy tickets was too long, even though we got there right after they opened. So we checked out a couple of other exhibits (one on the horse in art), then walked back to the city centre. We visited a couple of the shopping arcades and walked the streets before lunch.
   We then took the free city circle tram around downtown and out to the rejuvenated Docklands. Completing the route, we walked over to Fitzroy Gardens, checked out the strange and wonderful plants (photos later), and toured Captain Cook's Cottage.On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at the Windsor Hotel and managed to get the last booking for high tea there this afternoon.
   We tried for dinner last night at Rice Paper Scissors, a highly rated Asian restaurant, but they don't take reservations. When we arrived, the wait was over an hour, so we walked a few hundred feet to Becco, a pleasant (although a bit dark) Italian restaurant - Cheri had the roast duck (always her first choice) and I had saltimbocca.. Good restaurants are everywhere in Melbourne's downtown area - there were probably 50 of the city's top one hundred within 3 blocks of where we ate, and most of the rest within five blocks.
   Off now to do a little more street and arcade walking (there are a half-dozen 19th century shopping arcades here). then high tea, and an afternoon at the Botanical Gardens.

The Great Ocean Road

   Today is Wednesday and as of tomorrow, we will have been here for 3 weeks already. Amazing.

Hills west of Apollo Bay

   (John here: Early this AM, while Cheri was resting her cold, I went on a short hike at Mait's Rest, just west of Apollo Bay. Trees were even bigger than at the Otway Fly.Very Jurassic Park!)

On Mait's Rest hike

   Firstly, in answer to Ken's question about seeing kangaroos all over the place in the Grampians. . .  no. But we did see an inordinate number of dead ones along the side of the road! Then we saw one wallaby but it scooted off into the woods before Jay could get a pic. I think you had a distinct advantage by camping because you were then in the areas where all the roos were active at night. Since we're not supposed to drive after dark -- they don't insure the rental cars for accidents from sunset to sunrise -- we are not out and about in the dark. Plus, with us both having colds now, we get into the place we'll be spending the night and just collapse. That doesn't mean we don't head out to find a good place for dinner. It just means we're not walking around when the nocturnal critters are active.
   This morning, as we drove along the Great Ocean Road, we did pull into Grey River Rd. in Kennett River to look for koalas. When we pulled up, there was a family standing by the road with maybe 50 birds of all kinds all around them. They had bird seed, so birds flew in from everywhere. The parrots were sitting on their heads, shoulders, and arms and were eating out of their hands. We walked up and a green parrot flew onto my shoulder but left when it discovered I didn't have anything to feed it! Cockatoos flew in by groups screeching all the way and driving many of the other birds away from the seed. I had no idea that cockatoos were so prolific in Australia.

Friendly cockatoo

   As we walked further up the road, we saw 5 koalas in different trees along the road. A couple of them were pretty active considering it was time for their nap. Two of them we found because of the noise they made: they sounded like pigs or hogs grunting. It was pretty loud and we both looked and looked until we saw them. I think the one was disgruntled because the other one was too close. It left and found another branch from which to sleep!

Koala and friend

   We had another great meal at an ocean-side fish place in Geelong. we had battered "flattie" (flathead - description sounds like monkfish); it was very tender and had a very mild flavor. Also had prawn spring rolls (actually battered prawns with a spring-roll like filling around it) - also delicious. We are now in our room in Melbourne and will stay here for 3 nights. I'm hoping to throw off this cold by tomorrow but we're both coughing pretty consistently so that may not happen.  Jay mentioned that the kleenex here is scented with aloe, eucalytus, and peppermint so that was fun. Great idea too even though you can't smell anything when you are solidly into the runny nose part.
   Off to explore Melbourne tomorrow.. . .  we have a full schedule so keep your fingers crossed we don't poop out!
   Will add photos later if the wireless connection cooperates - it's been taking hours to upload a few photos to the Google blogspot.

The Great Ocean Road and Otway National Park

  Although we were a bit under the weather, we set out for Apollo Bay this morning. Weather was beautiful - white clouds but no rain - but the wind on the coast was pretty frigid. (We are approaching Antarctica here!). We stopped at the usual sights along the coast near Port Campbell - London Bridge, Loch Ard Gorge, the 12 (or fewer) Apostles.

Four Apostles

A couple more

   With the car heater turned up  high, we then headed for the Otway Range.
   As you climb into the Otway N.P., the scenery changes dramatically, from the rolling coastal dunes to steeper hills and then temperate rain forest. We went to the Otway Fly, a commercial elevated walkway through the rain forest. (We passed on the zip line). Amazing  250-foot tall beech trees and 12-foot high tree ferns, which are beautifully symmetrical from above. It was a chilly but worthwhile couple of hours.

The Otway Fly

Tree ferns

The cold wore on us enough that we passed on the Cape Otway Lighthouse (may go back tomorrow) and checked into a lovely room overlooking Apollo Bay, where we sit comfortably and watch the waves crash in.

View  from our room in Apollo Bay

The Grampians

   We left Horsham this morning for Grampians National Park. As we approached, the weather didn't look too bad, but that soon changed - rain until early afternoon.

Approaching the Grampians from the north

See! We ARE in Australia!

   We did see a wallaby (live) but missed the photo and then saw a couple of emus. Scenery was spectacular but dreary today so hiking was very limited.

Emus!

The fields were full of cockatoos.

   We visited the Brambuck Aboriginal Cultural Centre in Halls Gap and then headed south. An end to the rain and a delicious late lunch at the popular Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld briefly brightened our spirits, but we shortly realized we had both acquired a cold, probably on the Alice Springs-Adelaide flight.

Broken Falls, Daintree N.P.

   A few more hours driving across the flat, green, sheep-covered Victoria Plain brought us to the coast at Port Campbell. We'll do more sightseeing around here in the morning.

The Arch near Port Campbell

   In the meantime, we're sitting tight with hot soup and tissues (peppermint/eucalyptus-scented) as the rain has started pouring down outside again.

Some views from Barossa Valley yesterday

Adelaide and Barossa

Adelaide Botanical Garden - note people seated on left

       

Right out of your living room - a schefflera

    I actually typed up a long entry yesterday but it got lost somewhere out in the ethernet (connection crashed) so who knows who is reading it now. Hope they find it interesting!!
    In the last 2 days, we "did" Adelaide and the surrounding wine country to the east. We are now sitting in our room in Horsham, along the eventual route leading to Melbourne. But in Adelaide, I found my mecca. It's called Central Market and it is heaven. It's bigger than a square city block and has food from everywhere. There are counters of all kinds of cheeses, meats, fish, and veggies. Then there are shoe stores, jewelry stores, souvenirs, and wine. You could spend days in there. I kept trying to think where we could have one of these in Flag! There were tons of people there because there were also cafes and coffee shops all over the place. We went for breakfast but I had found a yogurt place first. . .  where you mixed your own yogurt and what you wanted in it. So I was devouring that while we walked around trying to find the eating place called the "Big Table". It's apparently a landmark in Adelaide and all the locals go early to get the few seats around the counter. We were late enough that the first lot had left and we squeezed in (it's a breakfast bar with about 10 stools). Jay ordered French toast and I've never had French toast taste so good. There were 2 "fat" pieces of bread and the toast was cooked with cinnamon, sugar and butter and served with syrup and rhubarb conserve, plus sliced strawberries. I had several bites because he could never have eaten it all by himself! School kids were among the crowd, usually accompanied by parents, who stopped by the counter to order coffee for the kids before school. Considering that all the coffee you order here, whether in a restaurant, cafe, or sidewalk shop, has to be made specially, it sometimes takes quite awhile to get your order. Kids were not able to finish theirs before it was time to leave so they would often leave whole cups sitting on the counter. I would have lapped them up given half the chance but the waitresses kept things pretty neat!

An aisle in Central Market

   Then we checked out an antique/book shop we heard about from the book seller the previous day. I found a book there that had been recommended to me and it was fun just browsing among all the "junk". When we were checking out, the proprietor and Jay got to talking and they found they had cars as a similar interest. He had just bought a Corvette and was so proud. It was left hand drive so he hasn't driven it yet but the pic he showed was beautiful. He also has a Jaguar!
   We tried the zoo but found that Wang Wang and Feni (giant pandas from China) were not available for viewing because it's spring and we all know that love blooms in the spring so they were, apparently, giving it a go. They apparently also needed privacy to get to know each other as they've only been allowed to "talk" through the fence so far. Since that was the main exhibit we wanted to see, we decided to forego the $33 entry fee (per person) and headed to the Adelaide Art Museum. The guide book recommends it because it has such famous painters as Margaret Preston and Charles Conder. . .  or is it Margaret Conder and Charles Preston? You get my meaning. Not too impressive but we checked it out anyway.
   Then we caught the Free Bus (great idea. . .  there are free buses all around downtown Adelaide and their schedules are listed just like the regular ticketed buses. Wonderful idea for tourists and older folks on set incomes). You can get off and on at your leisure. (unfortunately stops are about 5-6 blocks apart so we walked quite a bit too).We rode it for quite a way so we could see the buildings in North Adelaide, the Victorian residential area.. These residential areas are really nice with consistent Victorian architecture that is appealing. The city developers - as a group - must have all had differing ideas about what they wanted the downtown to look like as they have wonderful old buildings next to crammed-in monstrosities that are 15 stories high. The worst case we saw was a beautiful old building with a sky-scraper addition ON TOP OF IT!!!! A criminal offense!!

Victoria Square Fountain - note mixture of buildings behind

Houses in North Adelaide

The River Torrens in Adelaide's Elder Park, near the zoo

   For dinner (I know. . . . food AGAIN), Jay found us an Indian restaurant that won "best Indian restaurant" in South Australia for 2 years. We both had tandoori dishes. It was great but our lips were burning a bit afterward! I have to work at getting my papadoms flatter. Don't know how they did that.
   Yesterday (since we're catching up), we picked up our rental car and toured the Barossa wine area. I drove while Jay picked out where he wanted to go because you don't want to be caught drinking by the booze buses (police patrols). The shirazes and cabs are supposed to be really good in this area but Jay was not impressed with the cabs -- and he did try hard to be. He bought several bottles of the shirazes that we will take with us along the driving portion of the trip now that we don't have to fly anymore and watch what we carry. We'll then share these with our friends in Sydney once we get there (if there is any left!!). Jay can elaborate on the wines he tried but I won't even try. I can assure you, though, none of them were Yellow Tail!!
   (More on Barossa: beautiful rolling hills with gum trees, prettier than Napa. We hit about 8 wineries and bought a bottle at 6.   I really liked the shirazes and even some of the Grenaches and Rhone blends (GSM), but didn't find any cabernets that really excited me.Even tried the top-tier flight of Shirazes at Wolf Blass - 6 wines - but they were very closed so I couldn't fairly judge them. Should have called them 2 hours before to let them breathe! Penfold's was closed for renovations; the other wineries were mostly smaller. Very impressed with Grant Burge, especially the 2012 Shiraz. Photos to come.)
   Tomorrow we're off to Port Campbell (via the Grampians). . . .

The Outback and Adelaide

   Seems I have to play catch up a bit. . .  Jay uploaded some pictures and I haven't seen which ones they are but he asked if I'd posted anything about the actual experiences in the outback and I realized I hadn't.
   Firstly, the roads. They were all paved (that we used; there are certainly ones not paved but we didn't even try them). The only problem is that they were very narrow in places. I was driving over 80 miles an hour for much of the driving ( because the distances were so great; we wanted to get there). I started out so tense because I was watching for kangaroos everywhere and we didn't see a one! Once I got more relaxed about that, the driving got better but the steering on the camper was pretty dodgey and I didn't want to take even one hand off the wheel at any time.
  We also got a real kick out of several of the road signs. Our favorite was the sign about a speed camera. The roads are pretty straight and go on forever with NOTHING around, and they advertise that they have speed cameras -- AND I WAS GOING THE SPEED LIMIT!!!!
   Another impression we had was from the grocery stores. When we went to the one in Alice Springs, there were Aboriginal people all around. These were obviously the displaced ones and many were living on the streets, but it was very apparent that there exists a strict dichotomy between the abos and the whites. No one talked to them and even the check-out people ignored them when they were talking directly to them (although, to be fair, we don't know what they were saying and they could have been rambling). The main thing that stands out to me is that I had no idea that body odor could be SO strong and sickening. It actually kind of put one off of shopping for food! I wanted to buy deoderant and hand it out.
   About the camper itself: we got an upgrade -- for whatever reason, we don't know -- and we got a bathroom in it. At first we thought "we'll never use that" but we did, especially in the middle of the night when we didn't want to trek to the toilets at the campground. But the space, as roomy as it was, got a little cramped with 2 of us trying to pass each other when getting dressed or preparing something to eat. Usually, Jay went outside while I fixed breakfast just so I could move around. It was also pretty big (on the outside) for the narrow roads. It was pretty slick, though, and we realized we would have packed very differently if we were going to camp for the whole trip. Every night we had to slide my suitcase under the bed and Jay's was relegated to the space under the bench seats -- but even that was a tight squeeze because we had 2 large-ish cases plus backpacks. But it was great and allowed us to travel around that area more efficiently.
   Now we're exploring Adelaide and enjoying it. The food has been wonderful and we've talked about the fact that we are eating extremely well for much less than these kind of meals would cost in the U.S. Last night I had handmade ravioli with shrimp that were 6 to 7 inches long! There was a ricotta mixture in the ravioli and a wonderful sauce over everything. Then the potatoes had this crunchy stuff sprinkled over the top and I took one off separately to try to figure out what it was. They were capers but not like the ones we get. These were still in their casings and then it looked like they were cooked to be crunchy so when you bit into them, there was that salty flavor with the crunch. I loved them and would love to get some more! Jay had Tasmanian beef -- really red in the middle -- but also delicious. He had 2 glasses of wine and the total bill was around $80!! Pretty good. We're headed to the Central Market this morning because there is a place they advertise for breakfast (brekkie here) that all the locals use. Then we need to find another antiquarian book store that the guy yesterday told us about. . .  It's amongst antique stores and other stuff and we go through a courtyard and through some bushes to find. Just up our alley!!!
   Yesterday we did some souvenir shopping and visited the museums. High points were the South Australian Museum (very eclectic, great exhibits on aboriginal culture and on geology, esp. Pre-Cambrian) and the Botanical Gardens (founded 1855, trees of amazing size & variety). Disappointments were the National Wine Centre and the Tandanya Aboriginal Cultural Institute - both were in transition and had mostly empty galleries. Also visited an antiquarian bookstore - see above. Adelaide has a free bus service - convenient but the bus stops are somewhat widely spaced - about 4 or 5 long blocks. we usually miss the next bus, too, and have to wait a half-hour or walk.
   More later!

Adelaide - North Terrace, near our hotel

Rundle Mall - pedestrian shopping mall

Adelaide Arcade - like Burlington Arcade in London

Red Centre Photos

Our camper van

A typical "station" - only gas or food for 100 km

A "road train" - main goods transporter across the outback

It's a bit tense passing a road train on these roads at 130km/hr

Uluru (Ayers Rock) - even more impressive up close

Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)

Any sign of a speed camera (or even a red light)?

Adelaide Arrival

   Good morning! (Or good afternoon to most of you. . .  it's 7:45 Thursday morning here and it's almost 3:15 PM yesterday in Flagstaff). We just got up from sleeping in a hotel bed once again. Today will be our museum day: Museum of South Australia, Tandanya Aboriginal Cultural Institute, and maybe the Central Market. The guide books are right when they talk about this being a haven for foodies. We walked along the street where our hotel is (because it is known for its many restaurants) and all the menus looked good. We chose an Italian restaurant because we hadn't had that type of food for awhile. We're going to try some of the restaurants advertising Mod Oz food as that apparently uses lots of spices and edible things from all over Australia. We've already tried kangaroo and emu and thought they were both kind of chewy. And, no, they did not taste like chicken! I would have described them as more sausage-y. We didn't have any bugs yet but I would be willing to try honey ants if we see them. They were in the outback. They are ants that can bloat up their stomachs with honey which they store to feed the younger ants in the colony. The aborigines eat them like candy and I'd like to try them.
   We've decided that we are going to buy another suitcase. After lugging them from the airport (and they even put a sign on mine that said "heavy case, bend knees to lift"!) we need to get some of the things out of both our cases and just add that to our bundles. We'll take care of that this morning too. Lots to see here so we're going to get started. But first, off to a pastry shop for some fresh bread and coffee!!

The Outback

   Phew!!!! We are now at the Alice Springs airport and the first internet connection we've had for several days. We actually would have been able to connect at other spots in the Red Center but we were too busy and didn't want to take the time away from what we had on our list!! We just turned in the camper from Saturday and in that length of time, we've put 1600 miles on it! But it was great. We went to Uluru first (Ayers rock) and watched the sun set on the rock along with hundreds of other people. I didn't find it all that inspiring but it did seem to change colors over the length of time we were there.
   And, Ken, we did drive at night even though you made us take a vow! We like to eat in nice places and there was a really good restaurant at one resort so we drove over there after the sunset but couldn't get in -- apparently everyone likes to eat there. We did eat in the bar however and had drinks first, so that was pleasant. I've had some really interesting mixed drinks. Chris, I found a drink that more than rivals the chocolate martini. It has Kahlua along with several other chocolate/coffee flavors. Great pick me up!!
   Anyway, we didn't hit any animals although we did see a dingo crossing the road in front of us once. Jay said he saw it snarling but I was driving and had to look straight ahead! We did see several dead kangaroos along the road but not a live one in sight. Our amazing interaction with the animal world was when I went to the restroom at King's Canyon. I'll be graphic here but it's the only way to tell the story. When I flushed the loo I thought I saw something moving so I checked it out. It was a frog!!! It was grasping the side of the tank so I went to tell the park attendant and he just said "no worries. They live there, usually under the seat rim." That made my morning.. .  I couldn't imagine a group of frogs living THERE!!!
   The hike at King's Canyon was beautiful even though we didn't do the 4 hour one. We took one look at the steep, rocky hill and decided that was not for us. The 1 hour hike was beautiful and gave a good idea of what the "Eden" center was like.
   All the camping grounds were nice but we are soooo glad we had the nets to cover our faces. The flies here are smaller than at home but they are really tenacious. They land on your face and you can't shush them off!! They try to get into your nose and ears. Yuck!!! Thank heavens for the net!
   We will be leaving for Adelaide and the south in a couple of hours so we'll have pretty constant internet connections, I think. Our main problem now is we need to buy another suitcase. It's not because we've bought so much stuff . . .  it's just we took so much that even adding a few things makes it hard to pack. We'll buy a duffel bag when we get to a bigger city. That will alleviate some of the overpacking we have. We did buy some art work in Alice Springs. .   2 pieces of Aboriginal art. We're carrying that with us too, but they are rolled and in tubes.
   Better go. Time to get a little something to eat before the flight.

Great Barrier Reef and Daintree National Park

   I didn't get to post anything yesterday because we were on the Reef all day and today we got up early to go and get a rental car to head up north. Now we're back in the room trying to pack for the flight tomorrow to Alice Springs.
   But the Great Barrier Reef:  OMG. Really incredible. We boarded a dive boat early and then took a couple of hours to get out to the furthest reef that we would visit.

   While heading out, the scuba divers were versed on everything they needed to know and the snorkelers (us) were given wet suits, masks, and flippers. A marine biologist was on board and she then showed a film on what we might possibly see and what we all were supposed to do while snorkeling/diving. As they were anchoring the boat and preparing the platforms for the divers, we tried to get into our wet suits. Tried is the operative word here. I finally gave up and decided I would swim without one. Jay persevered but with great difficulty. Pretty funny stuff, especially with the masks on.

    We went over the side and there was a lookout person on top with a whistle. If any of the snorkelers went in the wrong direction or too far away, she'd blow the whistle and everyone was supposed to look to see what was up. Jay was in the water already and I was still putting my stuff on when the whistle started blowing, Then a pause. Then blowing again. I looked up and she was pointing at Jay. I finally yelled up to her that he didn't have his hearing aids in and couldn't hear the whistle. I said I was headed out that direction; what was I supposed to tell him? She said he was drifting too far off to the side and to swim more toward the back. I jumped off and swam over to him to tell him but he was having trouble swimming in ANY direction. The winds were really bad and, once in the water, waves would come up and over the snorkelers filling the airway of the mask with salt water. It was very frustrating and I found I was starting to pant-breathe because I couldn't get enough air in AND look at the reefs underwater. The waves got worse and worse and we had to constantly try to swim in the opposite direction that the wind was taking us. We were getting more and more exhausted. I'd look at the reef, gulp some water, take my mask off, clear it out and put it on again and then start the whole process all over. Finally, we both decided to get out and rest. Everyone had about an hour and a half to dive/snorkel and then it was time for lunch. After lunch, they moved the boat to another place, anchored up, and the whole process started all over again with the exception that this time it rained. We finally went out in a glass bottom boat and could see all along the reef without drinking salt water!! It was beautiful. Because of the wind, the skipper said what we were seeing was not as clear as when there is sunshine. But I was pretty pleased with what we did see.

   It's just unfathomable. . . coral of all colors, brightly colored fish swimming everywhere, etc. We actually found Nemo too (although it was his cousin. . . slightly different markings). As it turned out, a huge fish that is apparently very friendly, showed up to greet some of the divers so the photographer with the boat got some great pictures of divers petting this giant fish. Others saw a shark, manta rays, and a turtle. We got to see the pictures so it was pretty thrilling for us too. They showed the pictures on a CD on the flat-screen TV as we headed back to the dock.
   Today, we rented a car and headed up to the rain forest north of Cairns. It took a little bit to get comfortable again with driving on the left-hand side, but it all came back to me. . .  we'd done it for so many years in England. My main problem was hitting the windshield wipers every time I wanted to use my turn signal! Jay navigated and we didn't have any problems. I LOVE round abouts!! Traffic moved quickly and back-ups just don't happen when everyone knows what they're doing. The drive along Captain Cook Highway north was beautiful...mostly along the coast and very twisty.

Captain Cook Highway

               beach along Captain Cook Highway

                  Approaching Daintree NP
   At Mossman Gorge in Daintree National Park, we hiked through the rain forest and oohed and awhed at the incredible density of the forest and all the varieties of trees and plants. The vines here are amazing and some of them cause the actual tree diameter to double and triple in size until you can't even see the main trunk anymore. Unfortunately, some of these vines then kill the host tree, but some are actually beneficial to it.

   My main disappointment was that we didn't see any animals in the rain forest except for the odd Yowlus antipodeus, a  loud two-leggedcreature mainly found in airplanes and restaurants all over Australia (and America). There was one particularly vocal one at the Gorge.
   Now we're trying to pack (we really haven't bought much at all so far) but everything just doesn't seem to want to fit into the suitcases again!! Jay got his in but had to use the expansion zipper. I'm about to try the same thing now. Wish me luck!